Monday, February 21, 2011

Mass Consumed Style.

Another New York Fashion Week has come and gone. The exotic draping and unbelievable sets have been taken down and dismantled and Lincoln Center has been returned to its simple white walls and marble steps. Gone are Isaac Mizrahi and his color coordinated poodles and male models toting cake, Marc Jacobs and his show that cost roughly $1,750 per second to produce, Karlie Kloss' meteoric gaze, Christian Siriano's plum and moss inspired fete, the idea that fur may or may not be the new black and the power struggle over who's sitting front row.





And now I have some time.. like Coco Rocha, I'm sitting out London Fashion Week to look back on the week that was Fall 2011 state-side. So what did you think? Were you a fan, a foe or an independent who understood that Marchesa's classic flair for the fantastic was yet another example of beautiful for beauty's sake. As election day quickly approaches in Chicago and across the country for midterm debates, we begin to raise our voices and make our choices. As Americans we pride ourselves on our right to choose and as bloggers we pride ourselves on our right to judge behind the veil of an internet candy coated sense of security.

As each designer sent their masterpieces (hits and misses alike) down the runway, the front row, second row and those interns for PR Newswire all the way in the back uploaded their pics and videos to twitter, facebook and their very own blogs. They were quick mentions on my newsfeed, flashes of fancy across my computer screen and printouts that I plan to someday use as inspiration behind my yet to be requested feather and lace inspired gala ball. In my office I watched Marc Jacobs send his Marc by Marc collection down his metallic runway in real time. I was able to be a part of the action without booking a ticket or emptying my accounts.

In my first blog post I wrote about Tom Ford; the undisputed heavyweight of the late 90's and early part of this century when it comes to desireable style. His latest collection caused such a stir that those invited to the intimate event truly understood they were witness to one of the most awaited comebacks since Britney Spears agreed to grow her hair out and hit the gym. Ford, one of the biggest proponents of keeping fashion away from the internet, ensuring complete control over who sees it and when they are so allowed, up to him, he creates a dark curtain between fashion and those who often crave it the most. I'm not sure I realized until the season hit again how much I longed to be under those "tents" and how confused I was by Ford's decision to go old school. Mass media for the good or bad of it tears down the wall between the haves and the haves just a bit less.


So whether you sat front row, swag bag in tow and credit cards maxed to their full cardio ability or sat behind your roommates computer screen with a glass of three buck chuck, knowing you'd likely never wear anything you saw but still believing in the power of fashion for the sheer beauty of expression, you had the opportunity to be a part of the community. The power resided in you. While I can appreciate Ford's desire to make fashion a more discreet interaction between the designer and his selected audience, I think his direction is a bit misguided and lacks the understanding of his audience.

Fashion should inspire and empower. Communities have developed around people who share a common spirit regarding fashion and their ability to communicate by expressing themselves through what they wear and what they see. I think when designers begin to see themselves above those who support them, the threads begin to unravel around them. Art is subjective and fashion is no different. It's hard to put yourself out there and I can't really imagine the amount of confidence it takes to spend a year or so on a line that will march down the runway in 5 minutes or less, draped over the skinniest girl you will ever see, and then be open to judgement by everyone and anyone. But so goes the world and indivduality makes the world go round so buck up and put it out there if you dare or get off the moving ship.

If fashion is seasonal and trends change faster than the time it takes you to package up your holiday lights, then so to do the posts, the tweets and the opinions regarding a new line or launch. Believe in your work and do your best. Heidi Klum may say, "in fashion, one day you're in and the next you're out" but so be it. Share your gifts and become a part of the community. If streaming video is the new front row, maybe virtual access is the new black.

Friday, February 11, 2011

Dressing the Part.

I was in New York City for work last week and I kept noticing something. It was freezing out, the garbage bags strewn across the street were elevated quite a bit by the mountains of snow and ice... and yet everyone still looked as though they were part of a fashion shoot. What I noticed more than anything was that the guys, on average more than the girls were well dressed all the way down to their practical and yet incredibly stylish boots. If people recommend dressing for the job you want, it seems that in that respect New Yorkers have come to play. 


As someone who lives for fashion, and has been called a prep more than a couple hundred times,  I spent my childhood collar popped and in madras pants color coordinated to match with those of my siblings. What I've realized is that while I no longer feel the need to put a little extra starch in my collar, a solid car coat should have some in its, and while madras and lilly Pulitzer floral prints can itch just a bit, a classic tweed pant hemmed and cropped to the perfect length above a pair of well shined eagle toed shoes is well worth the effort. You don't however have to look stiff or overly formal to be well dressed. The best fashion forward men I see take what is traditional and make it their own by infusing a bit of color, an off beat print or a belt buckle that says, "hey I'm serious... but sorry, I party." 


I first saw it with my grandfather who always wore a suit on a plane and a button down (with his monogram on the sleeve) under a cashmere sweater and then again with my father who even though his company isn't business attire, wears cufflinks and a tie every single day. These were men, who other than being admirable for the people they were/are are inspirational for the way they dress the part for the life they want. 







And not shockingly I'm not the only one who feels this way. There are boutiques, online stores and stylists alike who have completely dedicated themselves to helping men dress the part for who they want to be. 


Ralph Lauren may be the current king of dressing for the American Dream but J Crew, Banana Republic and even Vineyard Vines offer fun, and often times more affordable spins on how to look the part. Noting that I wore the same outfit on both my first day of kindergarten and my first day of college (green Lacoste polo, white shorts and light brown sperry topsiders) I can't help but wonder if the classic stays relevant, why do we so often veer so far off course.





Enter the Haberdash Men's Shop recently opened in Chicago, an effort to bring back the haberdashery – the traditional men’s store of yesteryear. A local, one-stop shop tailored for men and only men. Adam Beltzman, who opened his doors this past fall, said that his goal was to create a safe place for men to come and spend some time talking, shopping and enjoying themselves. "Haberdash is modern tradition, a blend of cool classic style paired with Old School philosophy."

And then there's one of me personal favorites, the revival of the bow tie. Once relegated to men of a certain age, proms and red carpets, the bow tie, and the vest are now found under cardigans and hoodies in addition to blazers and jackets. People may look but it's worth the stares. 


George Clooney, Brad Pitt, Jake Gyllenhaal and Justin Timberlake are established Hollywood heavyweights who do it right; a testament to taking classic style and making it young and making it your own. 




When it comes to getting dressed every day, sometimes it's easier to pick some jeans, a t-shirt and a pair of kicks and get out the door. What I like to think, though is that even with these essential pieces being utilized in the right way, your wardrobe could be so much more than you may think. A solid colored tee in the right size over a pair of well tailored jeans and a pair of aviators can look polished and put together. 

Take a cue from the men of New York City and take the time. Be proud of how you look as much as who you are. Create a closet with staple pieces that can be pieced together in a variety of ways and you'll never run out of things to choose from. If confidence comes from looking the way you feel, and being proud of who you are, here's hoping classic is the new black. 

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

admiration measured in years

I feel like there has been a frenzy of forwards over the past few weeks. Videos, commentary, tweets and posts regarding the recent political unrest regarding the state of marriage in america; same-sex and otherwise. While I understand that I recently wrote about the NOH8 campaign, a symbolic stance that serves as a representation of the struggle, I risk seeming a bit one note writing about it again here; however, what I find so amazing about the recent frenzy, in these specific cases, is the age, posture and wisdom of those speaking out. 


Zach Wahls is a 19 year old from Iowa. From every view point he's your normal, All-American teen. He has good grades, extracurriculars and his own business to boot. He was, however raised by two moms. Unless you look at his birth certificate, his dining room table or his family photos you would never know who raised him, other than assessing they had done a wonderful job. What Zach, so eloquently spoke to in his speech was the fear that government was pulling for the power to define what is right and wrong. Iowa, one of few states that currently allows for same sex couples to be legally wed, was voting on whether or not to ban that current civil right. 




"If I were your son, Mr. Chairman, I believe I'd make you very proud," he said. "My family isn't very different from yours." He added, "You are voting for the first time in the history of our state to codify discrimination into our constitution." Utterly composed and with not the least amount of animosity Zach spoke to the audience of believers and non-believers with poise that in-and-of itself deserves recognition. When someone looks at you, at your parents and tells them they don't deserve the right to be your parents simply for falling in love... I can't imagine the amount of restraint and honor it took and I find it beyond commendable. 


While the mostly democratic State Senate has made it clear that they won't put the legislation to vote, the argument was judged by the Iowa House of Representatives with startling support. 


Graeme Taylor is only 14-years-old. He is a Junior Highschool student in Ann Arbor, MI and wears long sleeve tees. He is also a past guest of Ellen Degeneres ... 1 of these things isn't like the others. 


Graeme  traveled to a Howell Highschool school board meeting to speak on behalf of a teacher who was disciplined for asking a student to remove an article of clothing with racist undertows. The student who resisted with homophobic comments was not disciplined. While the heart of the argument lies in the inherent idiocracy of a teacher suspended for  asking a student to at least mask their overt hate, it becomes something even bigger when a young man of only 14, can see the dilemma and speak to it with a clear, coherent and utterly personal message. 


Citing Dr. King and likening the millions of estimated suicides each year (due to the struggle of gay and questioning individuals) to a silent Holocaust, Graeme spoke with knowledge, charisma and self assurance beyond his years. He point blank stated that he supports this teacher, a position that many adults would be too cowardly to do. 


When young adults refuse to accept the status quo or resist the temptation to hide behind what is expected of them, they inspire. These two men could not be more different. One just beginning his teen years and the other on his way out, one gay and one not, one an entrepreneur dressed in a suit and the other a student dressed to play, they both believed that they were directly effected by a ruling and an inequality that threatened to be built in to the legal system. 


While I was a precocious child myself, I'm not sure I ever contained the amount of self awareness or self assurance that these men did at their age. I'm truly in awe of their ability to speak from the heart, to speak to the law and to speak to what they believe. Neither backed down in the face of opposition or cried foul simply because they were themselves at the core of the debate. They used their personal stories as a jumping off point to speak on behalf of so many more who simply cannot. 


When the power of a voice becomes louder and stronger than the power of doubt, when students become the teachers and when wisdom trumps age, maybe standing up and speaking out will be the new black. 

Friday, January 28, 2011

blood, sweat and dior?

Most people would shudder at the thought of spilling something on their favorite designer dress, let alone grinding a grass stain up and down one side. Professional athletes train for 100's of hours a week striving to be the best in their chosen field. They bleed, they sweat and they fight for every inch of success... now imagine they do that all over a Calvin Klein tank?  Sheer force, power and adrenaline typically categorize an athletes focus.. rarely do you evaluate them based on their outfits. That is no longer the case. 


As I've written about before, fashion and technology work hand in hand to create some of the most exciting pieces of techno-art out there, but it's increasingly apparent that athletes want in on the action. 
Vera Wang and Ralph Lauren have been leading the charge for years, outfitting some of the world's top ranked olympians and occasionally the Olympic team as a whole. 

For Wang, godmother of all things bridal, skating was her first passion and even though she walked away after failing to make the Olympic team, "It's a very special sport," she says. She keeps close by designing costumes for some top contenders, including outfits for gold medalist Evan Lysacek, Nancy Kerrigan and Michelle Kwan. 


With Awards season serving as the world cup of fashion, most designers rarely worry about an actual wardrobe malfunction. In sports, the stakes are different. "You wouldn't want someone to lose Olympic gold because their sleeve ripped off," Wang says.


Other considerations: The outfit has to sparkle like eveningwear but function like workout gear; it has to stand up to the considerable wind generated by skaters' speed; and it must be show-stopping from every angle, unlike a Hollywood-starlet gown that is usually photographed straight from the front or back. It has to move with an athletes body, not hinder it. 
In 2012, Stella McCartney will work with Adidas to design the British team's Summer Olympics uniforms. The designer will not only outfit the athletes, but will also release four lifestyle collections "inspired by Team GB" before the games. This isn't McCartney's first dive into the game. In the past McCartney has partnered with Adidas on athletic apparel and clothed Caroline Wozniacki for Wimbledon. She called her new project a "once-in-a-lifetime opportunity."


Tasked with combining form, function, and fashion for the host-country’s Olympic team has more challenges then one might expect. McCartney says she plans on working with “incredibly technical fabrics” to compliment each individual and their sport. Admittedly she recognizes that fashion can’t take precedence over winning medals. “The main thing I want do is not in any way get involved with making their performance not its best.” 




My favorite designer/athlete "collaboration of love" as of late is Christian Louboutin and eccentric skater Johnny Wier. Louboutin is giving his iconic red soles a cutting edge with blades attached "I love me some red soles," Weir told New York Magazine,  citing that the custom Louboutin skates "will be a first, and exclusively for me." 




But what came first? The red sole or the calloused foot? 



In 1933, French tennis legend Rene Lacoste founded the now iconic brand bearing his name. While the brand reached its height in the late 80's as the symbol of all things posh, preppy and wall street worthy, some 75 plus years later the label , which started strictly as sportswear is still enjoying success both on and off the court. 
Tennis stars Maria Sharapova and Serena Williams have both taken a stab at designing lines in collaboration with better known sporting stores. 


The best designers in the world manage to walk the fine line between form and function. Carefully creating pieces that effortless move yet manage to stay in all the right places. It only made sense that sports, a world where form and function are cornerstones to success and class and style in movement are what set you apart would follow suit. If designers are throwing their rackets in the ring and their soles to the track, is gold the new black? 

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

silently screaming

A few months ago I saw an event posting on Facebook that the NOH8 campaign was coming to Chicago. I thought it could be a great way to be a part of something and to get a cool photo taken. When I was putting the photo in a frame last night I started thinking a bit deeper about it all and began to truly appreciate what this campaign was fighting for and how incredibly inspirational Adam Bouska, the photographer, activist and hero who started it all, really is. 

On November 4, 2008 Proposition 8 passed in California, amending the state Constitution to ban same-sex marriage. To most people it was an unfortunate blip in an otherwise pleasant news day but to hundreds of thousands of people all over the United States it was one more reminder that separate really don't mean equal. 

The NOH8 Campaign is a photographic silent protest created by celebrity photographer Adam Bouska (http://www.bouska.net) and partner Jeff Parshley in direct response to the passage of Proposition 8. The photos feature subjects with duct tape over their mouths symbolizing their voices being silenced by Prop 8 and similar legislation around the world, with "NOH8" painted on one cheek in protest.
Two years since its inception, the NOH8 Campaign has grown to over 8,000 faces and continues to grow at an exponential rate. The website which houses all of the photos as well as news, blogs and heartwarming stories of why individuals chose to pose is a tribute to the type of work which can be done when you use humans rather than hate to make a change. 













The photos aren't just gay men and women or even outspoken activists who spend their lives fighting for change and equality... they're couples, they're siblings, they're celebrities and news personalities, they're individuals...every day people who believe in good and in the fairness of having the right to live your live however you see fit. 

So looking back, why did I pose? I posed because I fell in love, and because I think others deserve the same chance. I posed because the idea of telling someone what they should eat for lunch let alone who they should marry seems utterly insane to me. I posed because it didn't hurt anyone. I posed because not posing seemed to make a bigger statement than posing. I posed because it was fun and a memory I'll be able to cherish forever. I posed because it felt right and when I took the train home, people saw my tattoo and started talking. I posed because everyone needs to start talking. 



There's something sweet about the idea that some day every one, regardless of who they love, or in what part of the world they choose to love them, will have the same ability to just go about their day without worry or fear of being prosecuted, tormented or bullied. It's a bold thought, but hopefully, if campaigns, programs and amazing people like this continue to stand up and force people to take notice equality will be the new black.

Saturday, January 22, 2011

crazy ugly beautiful

Sometimes I find myself watching the runway in complete and utter awe as some of the most intricate, beautiful or just fascinating pieces of art find themselves walking by. Other times I find myself just staring... staring at clothing that (in fairness, at least to me) doesn't seem to make much sense at all. As I've mentioned in a previous post, I thoroughly enjoy art without a purpose, but even those photos, painting or installations manage to filter a sense of light or inspiration other than just attempting to shock. 


So in looking at the most recent collection from famed, albeit whimsical designer Vivienne Westwood, I find myself just thinking... why? Each piece seemed slightly more ill fitted and slightly less appealing than the one before. As a fan of the classics, I can't deny the beauty of something that manages to take something simple and make it new or even something less classic, that finds a way to be sensational. I'm not sure, however, that I'll ever understand making things so far-out that they never seem to connect. 




At another show, set in the avante gard world of Paris Fashion Week, Thierry Mugler and Lady Gaga have teamed up to create a video launching both his newest line and her newest song. The song, from her album due out this May, titled "Born this Way" is just the base pumping background you might expect to hear at a fashion show created with Rico, the skeleton-looking face-tattooed mega model,  Formichetti used as his designer muse. 



Some runway witnesses seemed to feel the show was more of a display, a stylish installation rather than a fashion revelation. While fashion reviews admitted, there was slight disappointment regarding the slightly minimalist approach, they recognized that Nicola is trying to refashion a brand, not stage an exhibit. 

Lady Gaga, never one to shy away from the outlandish, speaks highly of her close friends latest line. "His brain throbs with misfit royalty, glamour as punk survival, attitude as liberation, style as revolution. Thierry Mugler has a way with legendary lifestyle and Nicola is just that: Epic Lifestyle, Freakdom, Gorgeous or Die, the 'fuck' in future poetry, the street in High-Fashion. Nicola Formichetti is Fashion's Freedom."

Taking it one step further, past the clothes, past the music, past the scene,  one modeling agency in NYC is touting their ability to take fashion a bit more tongue in cheek. Challenging the idea that anyone is too ugly to model, the firm, suggestively titled Ugly, founded in 1969, looks for unique models who are not considered traditionally beautiful. According to agency founder Simon Rogers, "beauty really does come in all shapes and sizes," and in the modeling industry, there's room for all. Looking to cover their bases, the firm does, against their creed have a sister agency, Rage which focuses on more traditionally beautiful models. 
Art is open for interpretation and fashion and design are definitely no different but if the goal becomes more to shock than to inspire, is fugly the new black? 








Thursday, January 20, 2011

...to the MAX



On a scale from one to crazy, these guys are jalapeno-covered ding-dongs. Taking place today in the land down under, the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series 2011 saw 13 athletes go head to head and more importantly feet to water. With stops all over the world, Red Bull has inspired athletes, dare devils and thrill-seekers alike to throw caution to the wind peering over the edge of a jagged cliff some 100 feet above the water. 




The talent might be the same as many olympic-style sports, but the prep (chugging redbull and hitting one another) and the celebration (crushing champagne bottles) is certainly a bit different. 


Additionally at the end of this month, the Winter X Games 15 returns to Aspen for its 10th year. The competition, which often features new tricks (such as Tony Hawk's 900 in skateboarding, Anthony Napolitan with the first double front flip on a bicycle, Travis Pastrana's double backflip in Freestyle Motocross, and Levi Lavallee's double backflip in Freestyle Snocross) is the most respected semi annual event in this world of high octane, no nerve sporting.



So why do people take the risk? The competitions themselves present a multitude of dangers with the promise of intense pain, let alone the hours of training that also put you daily at risk... The X-games and the series of Redbull sponsored sporting competitions are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to this world. In doing a bit more digging I found thousands of athletes who are constantly pushing the boundaries of what our bodies can do and the damage they can endure. The Extreme Sports Blog is home to some of the most ridiculous and cringe worthy videos on the web. 



If we are so easily bored by what we've seen before and feel the need to test the unknown or attempt the unexpected, is pain the new black?